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I tried to poke around on it, writing 0x0214 to 0x71 unlocked some new commands. Had a super strange experience with one of these on a windoze10 machine. This is how Dell J1KND batteries have their pins laid out: Laptop batteries can have different pinouts.
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Now you need to edit another file: sudo nano /etc/modulesĪdd this line to the end of the file: i2c-devĪfter reboot make sure that the I2C-tools package is installed: sudo apt-get update Important: newer RPi boards handle frequencies differently. Hit Ctrl+X to exit nano, press Y and Enter/Return key to save the changes and exit. Important: don’t go above 100 kHz because SMBus doesn’t support it. Notice that there are two commands in the same line, one which enables the I2C-bus and after the comma the clock frequency is set to 100 kHz. Open a terminal and edit the config.txt file with nano: sudo nano /boot/config.txtĪdd this line to the end of the file (or un-comment if present): dtparam=i2c_arm=on,i2c_arm_baudrate=100000 Although as per requirements I/O levels are good up to 5.5V. The RPi2 has a 3.3V I/O level so it’s perfect for this purpose. The ultimate goal would be to rewrite capacity and cycle values to make the IC think it is in a brand new battery.Īfter reviewing the electrical requirements for SMBus I decided to connect my Raspberry Pi 2 Model B to the battery. Now I get the idea why people don’t just repair their batteries. All right, this looks bad but in a good way. All of them must conform to the Smart Battery Specifications. Meanwhile I learned that these batteries are "smart" and they have an I2C-like communication protocol (SMBus).
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Both Design Capacity and Full Charge Capacity were dropped from ~48000 mWh to 6588 mWh. The old cells or my way of disassembly probably messed up the BQ8050. The battery monitor showed that something is wrong.Įven though the cells were fully charged some factory values were automatically changed. I plugged in the charging cable for a minute which revived the battery and the laptop started… for 5 minutes. After modifying the case to accommodate the longer cell pack and assembling the case the laptop did not start up at first.
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The image above doesn’t show but I later added thick pieces of paper below the nickel strips to avoid further shorts.Īs you imagined the story doesn’t end here. I accidentally damaged the pink protection layer on one of the cells with my soldering iron and shorted the two poles… biiig spark ensues. In fact you shouldn’t do this at home at all. Before soldering I charged all 6 cells one-by-one to 4.20V. I re-used the original spot-welded nickel strips and soldered them back using phosphoric acid surface wetter (75% H3PO4 / 25% H2O the cell’s stainless steel cover requires special wetting for solder to properly melt on it).